Spatial and temporal correlation between beach and wave processes: implications for bar–berm sediment transition

doi:10.1007/s11707-017-0655-y

Front. Earth Sci.

2018, Vol. 12

Issue (2) : 349-360 https://doi.org/10.1007/s11707-017-0655-y

RESEARCH ARTICLE

Spatial and temporal correlation between beach and wave processes: implications for bar–berm sediment transition

V. JOEVIVEK^1,²(

), N. CHANDRASEKAR¹, S. SARAVANAN¹, H. ANANDAKUMAR², K. THANUSHKODI², N. SUGUNA², J. JAYA²

¹. Centre for GeoTechnology, Manonmaniam Sundaranar University, Abishekapatti, Tirunelveli 627012, Tamil Nadu, India
². Akshaya college of Engineering and Technology, Kinathukadavu, Coimbatore 642109, Tamil Nadu, India

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Abstract

Investigation of a beach and its wave conditions is highly requisite for understanding the physical processes in a coast. This study composes spatial and temporal correlation between beach and nearshore processes along the extensive sandy beach of Nagapattinam coast, southeast peninsular India. The data collection includes beach profile, wave data, and intertidal sediment samples for 2 years from January 2011 to January 2013. The field data revealed significant variability in beach and wave morphology during the northeast (NE) and southwest (SW) monsoon. However, the beach has been stabilized by the reworking of sediment distribution during the calm period. The changes in grain sorting and longshore sediment transport serve as a clear evidence of the sediment migration that persevered between foreshore and nearshore regions. The Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis and Canonical Correlation Analysis (CCA) were utilized to investigate the spatial and temporal linkages between beach and nearshore criterions. The outcome of the multivariate analysis unveiled that the seasonal variations in the wave climate tends to influence the bar – berm sediment transition that is discerned in the coast.

Keywords beach nearshore sandbar grain size empirical orthogonal function canonical correlation analysis

Corresponding Author(s): V. JOEVIVEK

Just Accepted Date: 27 May 2017 Online First Date: 27 June 2017 Issue Date: 09 May 2018

Cite this article:

V. JOEVIVEK,N. CHANDRASEKAR,S. SARAVANAN, et al. Spatial and temporal correlation between beach and wave processes: implications for bar–berm sediment transition[J]. Front. Earth Sci., 2018, 12(2): 349-360.

URL:

https://academic.hep.com.cn/fesci/EN/10.1007/s11707-017-0655-y
https://academic.hep.com.cn/fesci/EN/Y2018/V12/I2/349

Fig.1 Location map of the study area. The dotted line shows cross-shore profile segment and green block is the fixed benchmark.

Tab.1 Wind and wave data of Nagapattinam coast during the study period

Fig.2 Seasonal variation of bar-berm sediment transition. (a) Flat berm with numerous sandbars (January 2011), (b) developing berm surface with few sandbars (April 2011), (c) well developed berm with absence of sandbars (October 2011), (d) short berm with numerous sandbars (January 2012). It is interesting to note that beach condition in January 2012 is almost similar to the January 2011. The arrow in yellow color demarcates seasonal variation over an annual cycle.

Fig.3 Cross-shore beach profile during the period between January 2011 and January 2013.

Tab.2 Beach morphology and texture of foreshore sediments

Fig.4 Grain size distribution at the foreshore region.

Fig.5 EOF results show spatial and temporal variation of the beach morphology. (a) Monthly variation (January 2011 to December 2011), (b) seasonal variation (January 2011 to January 2013).

Fig.6 CCA results showing correlation between beach and wave dynamics. The red color indicates nearshore parameters and green color indicates beach morphological parameters.

Tab.3 Percentage of variance obtained from EOF and CCA analysis

Fig.7 Longshore sediment transport over an annual cycle (January 2011 to December 2011). Positive direction (black color) represents sediment transport rate during NE monsoon and negative direction (gray color) implies sediment transport rate during SW and fair weather period.

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